Ben Tre adventures

Hey all,

The last two weeks have been completely packed with activities. To give you some idea of what I’m talking about, just last night I was taken to a Cao Dai temple that I didn’t know existed and was invited to a huge party that I had no idea was happening until the morning of. 

A party with ~50 people, which I learned about that morning. Good thing I already had tomorrow's lesson planned...

How has this been here in the city without me knowing? For six months? Crazy. But a beautiful surprise to find. 

It’s been that sort of week.

With that in mind, let’s get into it!

So as you may or may not know, the Lunar New Year, or Tết as it is called in Vietnam, is coming up in a little more than a week, on February 10^th. This means two very important thing. 

1. I have two weeks off starting on Monday, the week before Tết and the week after. Travel to Cambodia beckons!

2. There is a general air of festivity and fun that has been steadily permeating the air in Bến Tre for the past few weeks, a sense of which I hope to convey in this blog post.

The week before I went to Hue I heard that there was a “hội chợ,” or market festival happening in Bến Tre. Most provinces have some sort of a market festival around the time Tết approaches. I learned that attendance at English Club that week was so low because most of my students had gone to the “hội chợ,” either to work the festival or to just wander around. So, I did some activities with the students who came, and then they took me to the festival.

A whole market city had been set up around the Ben Tre History museum, a big open square completely transformed into a bustling, crowded bazaar. Everything is for sale, from kitschy souvenirs to clothing to household decorations to gardening implements. The market is packed, with people pushing through the crowd to gawk at the latest gadget display or eagerly rummaging through the various shirt deals.

The market

There were several people doing "silver-bullet" like commercials live to demonstrate their wares

I legit thought this was an antique/showcase weapons store when I first saw it. Nope, they are just selling Vietnamese cooking/landscaping items. Jesus. 

 A packed market would seem to be a perfect ground for pickpockets, and its clear that the higher ups in Ben Tre province think the same way I do. The market is lined with police, with a green-uniformed officer every four or five steps. We pace under their watchful eyes as we cut through the row of smoothie stores.

We also swung by the Ben Tre history museum. Everything in the museum was captioned in Vietnamese, so it was perhaps not as educational as it should have been, but it was still an interesting experience.

At the museum

They had a picture of Bến Tre College!

I got back from Hue on Monday and was immediately invited back to the “hội chợ” by my English Club. Well, can’t have too much of a good thing right?

The whole English Club at a chocolate store

Kim Long poses with coconuts

Ms. Nga tries some honey

Mr. Luan outside a coconut candy store

Two of my students, Quyen and Nhu, were working at one of the stalls!

Woodcarvers hard at work

Eating fresh clams

Another benefit of going to the “hội chợ” with my teachers: the teachers bought me stuff. Came back with a  bottle of rice wine, a box of chocolate and a wooden horse carved with my name, all free. Score.

Later that night was another milestone of Vietnam: eating snake. I’ve eaten snake before, but not since I was in Vietnam 11 years ago. I think it’s safe to say I’ve forgotten the taste.

I got to Mr. Duc’s house, the mechanic whose house/shop I drink in all the time, and the snake consumption had already begun. 

Mr. Hoang and Mr. Man were passing around a big glass full of some thick red liquid. I asked Mr. Hoang what they were drinking. He gave me a troubling grin and said “rượu rắn.” Snake wine.  Actually, snake blood mixed with rice wine. He poured me a glass. 

Snake wine

Well, when in Rome, right? 

It tasted worryingly like a bloody mary.

Mr. Duc serving the snake porridge

The actual snake was served in a thick rice porridge, heavily spiced and quite delicious. The meat was a bit chewy, but if it hadn’t been for the thick black scales it could have been chicken. I had quite an enjoyable evening eating snake and throwing back shots of rice wine.

Highlights for the rest of the week included going to see one of my students singing in church, and giving a presentation on culture shock to my fellow English teachers.

My student Kim (first row, third from left) singing at church

Presenting on culture shock

Teachers doing an exercise to simulate culture shock: having to communicate without writing or talking. Some of the gestures were truly hilarious. 

This past weekend we went to Cho Lach, one of the districts of Ben Tre. Cho Lach is especially known for its beautiful flowers. With Tết coming up soon, the flower markets are especially busy. Everyone buys flowers to decorate their house during Tết, and so the flowers are all in full bloom. I could hardly put my camera down.

We went to visit several flower gardens, the highlight being a flower garden around the grave of Petrus Truong Vinh Ky. Petrus Ky is one of the most important scholars in Vietnamese history. His publications popularized the Romanized Vietnamese script that is used today.

At the grave of Petrus Ky

He wrote the first history of Vietnam in a European language, the first Vietnamese textbook in a European language, and was a prolific translator of both European and Vietnamese works. I had no idea he was born in Ben Tre, but he is one of my province’s most famous sons.

We also visited the church in Cho Lach, apparently the largest church in the whole Mekong Delta. I would believe it.

The church

Outside the church

Six bells in the bell tower

Inside the church, apparently the giant star decorations are only made in this church

Vietnamese confessional. Oh, the priest can't see who is confessing, but everyone else in the community can. Typical.

That night I was invited to my first Vietnamese wedding! Mr. Vu's brother-in-law was getting married, so I was invited to the wedding. I was very excited, as it would be the first Vietnamese wedding I have ever been to. I learned that Vietnamese weddings are typically spread over two days. On the day before the wedding, the bride and the groom's families celebrate separately. The next day, the actual ceremony occurs. 

I was busy on Sunday, so I only got to go on Saturday. We got to Mr. Vu's in-laws family home, a massive house in Chau Thanh district. A massive pavilion had been set up outside the house, with dozens of tables. We sat down and immediately began to eat and drink. 

On Saturday only three or four of the tables were filled, but I was told that on Sunday the entire place would be packed.

The groom and his family had their own special ceremony in front of the family altar. The groom, the father of the groom and the mother of the groom all lit incense to the various ancestors. 

Lighting incense in front of the altar

Then the groom's grandfather made a speech to the whole family

Then it was time for giving gifts! A typical wedding present in Vietnam is an envelope with a fair amount of money inside. The relatives all gave their envelopes to the groom, and with each envelope the groom got he drank some rice wine with the gift giver.

The tea, the rice wine and the envelopes 

Making his way down the line

Sharing wine with a gift giver

I got to speak with the groom a little, although I obviously didn't want to monopolize his time. His name is Mr. Vo, and he was very friendly. He works as a trainer for luggage sorters at the airport in Ho Chi Minh City, so he speaks some English. We spoke a mixture of English and Vietnamese, with him translating the more obscure words into English. It was really great to meet him, and I gave him an envelope with some money, drank a shot with him and wished him the best. 

Mr. Vo with Mr. Vu and Mr. Vu's wife

From left: Me, Mr. Vo, Mr. Minh, Mr. Ung and Mr. Quoc

I woke up on Sunday incredibly tired from the night's activities, but also very excited for the coming day.  Last Sunday was an exciting day for me, because my friends from Fulbright were coming to town! Anna and her mom were traveling through the Mekong Delta, and they brought Lindsay with them!

Anna, her mom and Lindsay showed up and we immediately headed out for coffee. My students Xuyen, Trinh and Tram came along to show us around! Of course, we headed for Lang Van, as that place has become my haunt.

After going to Lang Van, Anna’s mom mentioned that she wanted to try a particular dessert/snack, bap nuong or grilled corn. Xuyen immediately perked up and mentioned that she knew a place! So after finishing coffee we sped off to get more food.

We headed down to the riverfront and waited by the side of the road while an old lady grilled the corn, then we went to a nearby café to get smoothies and eat our snacks.

Waiting for the grilled corn

The lady cooking the corn on the street

Drinking smoothies and eating grilled corn. Living the high life.

The corn was delicious, and the company was fantastic. It was really great seeing my students interacting with my friends. These students are some of my stronger pupils, so they were able to converse in English when necessary, but it definitely helped that Anna and her mom speak fluent Vietnamese. In no time at all my students were chattering with each other and my friends, showing them the best Southern hospitality. Have to say I was a little bit proud of them.

That night we had dinner at my favorite phở place, then headed over to Mr. Duc’s house. Anna had heard about how frequently I drink with the mechanics, and she had said she wanted to experience it as well. Lindsay and Anna’s mom came along for the ride as well, and it was a lot of fun!

Anna, her mom and Lindsay at Mr. Duc's house

Anna discovers the reason I hang out with the mechanics so much

Mr. Duc and his friends were excited to have so many new guests, and my friends got to experience what my normal nightlife in Ben Tre looks like.

Given that I had to teach the next morning, we called it off fairly early. The next day Anna and Lindsay came to my class! They helped me teach my class, got to meet Mr. Luan and generally entertained my students.

Photo courtesy of Anna

Anna getting a present from Mr. Luan

Lindsay getting her present from Mr. Vu Hung

Anna and Lindsay demonstrate the next activity

Anna helping me with teaching pronunciation

Lindsay teaching pronunciation

It was fantastic having them come to my class, if anything I underused these two amazing and experienced teachers.

I have to admit I was a bit sad to see Anna, her mom and Lindsay leave. I’ve had visitors come to Ben Tre before, but these three stayed for longer and saw more of Ben Tre than any of my visitors besides my mom. It was really amazing having them visit, and I hope they enjoyed seeing a slice of my life in Ben Tre.

Another classic me + Anna picture

With my friends!

So, tomorrow I leave from Ho Chi Minh City. Will go from there to Cambodia on Sunday February 3^rd. After that I head back to Vietnam on the 9^th, and go to see my family on the 10^th.

During all these travels I will not have my laptop, but I will be taking my camera. So, I won’t be able to post anything before February 11^th, but when I do I should have lots to share!

Thanks for reading! Talk to you later.

Love,

Jefferson

P.S. There is no caption for this picture. Just, oh my god, too much...